Canary region Spain

"I imagine how you return: shaved heads, golden chain and fingers fan", – I said my friend, learning that I was going to the Canary Islands. "No, – I made an attempt to justify. – There are no alone gangsters rest. "

Our view of the Canarians is folded along the two islands: in Grand Canaria and Tenerife. As if there are no others at all! Neither Lanzarote with his intact landscapes, nor Fuertaventra with her sand dunes, nor Homers nor Ierro, nor Palm trees – the only islands of whole seven. So I intended to tell about those places where the Russians had not yet reached. But if you admit honestly, at that moment I was not yet fully confident – and whether they exist at all, other canars other than those advertised in glossy booklets under duty headlines "Islands of eternal spring".

Despite any crisis, "Aeroflotovsky" IL-62, flying on Fridays from Moscow on Tenerife, was packed under the eye. The company of the Redshek Urals in club jackets, put on top of Olympic, sissing noisy "plower". Kazan distributors "Herbleypha" Cut the homemade fat and shut off the Spanish words. Three long-legged Barbie from Borovsk Twitched about the upcoming casting. Well, we are professional openers of new routes – sharpened feathers and rubbed lenses. The Institute of Tourism of Spain (the name itself explains what he is engaged in) offered to Moscow journalists to make sure that the Canar can not only be told about Mecca for "New Russians".

On the trip we were accompanied by charming Gabriela, representing the Canary Tourist Council. Thanks to her connections, we were able to get acquainted with the islands better than ordinary vacationers. We, for example, I even managed to visit the Dragono tree, not allowed inside. It sounds somewhat strange, but now I will explain what it means "inside".

Dragon tree is considered a symbol of all Canary archipelago. It has a sleek trunk, thick crown and pointed leaves. The most famous copy whose age is about seven hundred years, grows in the town of Icode de Los Vinos. The trunk of this tree is so wide that it can be logged in as in the house. There is even a wicket there – but only for the guard, which is on duty at the tree as a nurse in the bed of an elderly person. Gabriela agreed with a partition – and each of us (there were only ten people) I was able to enter the trunk. I do not know if you have such an opportunity. Therefore, I inform that inside the tree you can see instruments and sensors to maintain the necessary temperature and humidity indicators.

Let me remind you that Canaras belong to Spain, although they are located from it at a distance of one and a half thousand kilometers and geographically, along with azoras, Madeira and the islands of green cape, belong to Macronesia. Canary residents are 1.5 million, which is 4 percent of the entire population of Spain. But the Canar themselves do not completely identify themselves with the mainland Spaniards and call the latter "Godos" – "Pedinshotis".

Disputes still continue: in honor of the birds of Canary, the Canary Islands are named – either on the contrary, the mothers brought to Europe in the 16th century called by the name of those places where they were caught. By the way, about birds. Do you know how to distinguish the male canary from females? While you will think, I will give another version of the name of the archipelago. Polynaya senior historian forms name "Canary" From Latin words "Kanisa" – "dog". The fact is that the main occupation of the ancient islanders was the breeding of large dogs.

Aborigines who lived on the Canarians before their conquest – High blond people, from head to feet, tattoos were called Guangchi. Versions of scientists about their previous homeland disagree: Some claim that Guangchi is Berbers who saved from West Africa, others prove that Guangchi first lived in Northern Europe and were Viking there. On different islands, the Guangcian representatives of weak sex played different roles.

Two kings and two women were ruled on Fuertavevenue, one of which resolved disputes and judged, and the second was the priestess and the head of the ceremony.

Lancer ladies had three husbands with whom they lived in turn. Until the first marriage, the young girl was rapidly rejected – until its weight reached a hundred kilograms. Primitive people thought that healthy children could only be born in a complete woman.

Real Amazons lived on the palm. All their robes consisted of goat skins stitched with sheep guts. Along with men, they fought sticks and stones – Spanish conquistadors got great from their primitive weapons.

But the humility went almost naked, they were fed fern roots, lived in the caves, had common wives and offered them to guests as a sign. Failure to taste his wife was equal to death.

And on the Grand Canary, there was a completely humiliating custom: the girl could be married only after the representative of the highest no one deprived her innocence.

Rodnilo Gunchi One: on every island of all the dead, they rubbed the juice of the dragon tree, were embarrassed and folded in the caves where the descendants of these perch mummies lived. So far, no one knows why in the history of world civilization mummification was engaged only in Peru, in Egypt and here, on Canaries. Mummy Guangchi can be seen in the Archaeological Museum of the city of Santa Cruz – the capital of the island of Tenerife.

This museum can be found on the Square of Spain – and the Square itself is easy to detect for a large Cross-shaped monument established in memory of those killed during the civil war 1936-39. All without exception: and Republicans and Frankists. General Franco, then the Governor of Tenerife, it was here that the plans of military insurgent against the Spanish Republic. But on the Canaries to the dictator relate to great respect – there was no such rampant repression, as on the mainland. The largest monument of Santa Cruz is made in the spirit of totalitarian romanticism. On the back of the winged Archangel there is a bronze figure of Caudillo, and the jets of water.

Near this fountain I saw such a scene. From the rigging "Spain-covezes" A mustache man was released in a working jumpsuit and with thick cigar in the teeth. He pulled out a large palm branch from the trunk and began to sweep the street. And raising a fair cloud of dust, threw a broom to the back seat, flopped over the ram, drove the meters twenty-five and revenge again. And all this – without removing cigars. What are the local wipers!

Another attraction of Santa Cruz – the church of the immaculate conception, in which they are stored (oddly enough, it is in the church) Military trophies – banners of Admiral Nelson. In 1797, he tried to capture Tenerife, but suffered from the troops of General Gutierros. El Tigro (king guns, in our opinion), released from El Tigro (king cannon,. But as soon as the battle is over, the invalmonious Canar sent to Admiral as a gift from the barrel of wine and called one of the city streets in his honor.

The current Tenerines are called "Chicherero". This word is called the variety of sardines, whose fishery did not live so long ago. Then the whole point of their existence was the sea. And today, if you stand at the dawn, you can see on the horizon of sails of fishing boats, bravely overlooking the open sea. But the main profit is now brings tourist business.

In the Tenerphian port of Los Gigantes, you can rent for a whole day equipped with echo sounds and boat locators "Makisi-5" Together with the most modern equipment. The sea from the local shores is very deep, and to arrange fishing a la hemingue, do not swim too far. On the berth installed scales for weighing caught prey. I asked the latest records. It turned out that only last week the following were caught "Elephants": Fish-hammer – 180 kilograms, Blue Marlin – 440, Tuna – 325.

But Cachelotov is categorically prohibited. The population of the tooth whales, which it is easy to learn from a chish on the forehead and a long dorsal fin, has only 250 copies. Only two dozen ships are allowed to approach the animals – and that is not closer than 60 meters. To fall out fountaining animals, you need to go to the sea about seven in the morning. At this time, the coushlotes are breaking around by Plankton’s floating on the surface.

In Tenerife there is a whole set of marine entertainment: windsurfing, sailing, water skiing, parachutes and diving – all this is absolutely available and not very expensive. And for fans of acute sensations there is a real pirate ship with red sails and "Merry Roger" on mast. It goes to one of the suburban beaches (in the city the city do not bathe – the port), and on the way of tourists they take to the boarding.

On the Embankment of the Evening Santa Cruz, music sounds, shine lights and hurt the indescribable aromas of freshly prepared seafood. After slakny and dark Moscow, it seems that you are present on the filming of the film about inaccessible foreign life. Just sitting down behind a wicker table and ordering a cup of strong coffee, you begin to understand: there is nothing unusual in all this luxury. We are just so accustomed to the lack of amenities, to widespread rudeness and exorbitant prices that the most common things are perceived as supernaturality. Ranking strawberry ice cream, participant in our group – the master Singleness Vladimir Vishnevsky admitted to me that he had already invented the title to his future article: "Canaras like a life rate".

However, there is something on Tenerife to look except beaches, restaurants and water parks. Otherwise, there would be a tour Heyerdal. The famous traveler discovered on Tenerife a mysterious pyramid of rectangular stones. Here he opened an ethnographic park in which you can trace the development of antique civilizations and see the pa-2 papyrus boat. Knowing people say Heyerdal seriously engaged in a hypothesis, according to which the Canary Islands are the remnants of the Atlantis dropped to the bottom, described by the ancient Greeks.

I do not know if an ancient Atlantis was actually here – but in volcanic origin of the islands you are convinced immediately. Canary landscapes are weave the multi-kilometer guts of petrified lava. From any place on Tenerife, a volcanic mountain Tadeid is visible – the highest peak of Spain. Especially effectively she looks winter. Imagine: Fasting on the beach you can watch her snowy peak. "Tadeid for Canar – it’s like a Volga for Russians", – Says Gabriela.

Rising on the road in the most press, or, as Spaniards say, in "Calderu" (in translation – "boiler"), You can observe the change of various types of vegetation depending on the height of the lift. At the bottom, bananas are growing, above – Kiwi and Mango, even higher – potatoes, and, finally, at a height of two kilometers – coniferous. They represent "Pinus Canaryiensis" – "Canary Pine", Similar to our conventional Christmas tree, but inverted and stuck in the ground. This tree is capable of fixing volcanic soil and has very long needles, from which water droplets flow all the time.

The territory of the caldera declared a geological museum. The trail goes along the yellow sandy slope, between huge lavva flows, snapped with black obsidian fragments. It is forbidden to collect plant samples and minerals. And on the very top can be climbed on foot in two days. The type of fresh geothermal sediments lit by the morning sun at an altitude of 3000 meters leaves an unforgettable sense! I myself, however, did not rise.

But I got in the city of La Orotava at the real Brazilian party. Canary respect all that is connected with Latin America and even divide on supporters and opponents Fidel Castro. On the scene of the local house of culture sounded music "Latino", Guests danced Hot South American Salsa. "Borochos" – so called local drunks – jerked in a buffet revolutionary cocktail "Cuba Libra" (one part of the Roma into two parts of the cola) and squeezed anti-communist "Pinya Kolada" (the same rum – plus coconut milk, pineapple juice and cold cream).

The best representatives of the fauna from all over the world live in the entire world of the Tenerife Loro Park. Only parrots here are 300 species. Gorilla poses in front of visitors with a view of Rodean thinker. Giant turtle crunches by cabbage sheet. Sedoous Sea Lion Spifters on the nose Red Ball and jumps through the ring. But the most interesting can be seen in a glass tunnel, laid inside the pool with sea water. You go through it – and around, from all sides, literally in a centimeter from you, floast sharks swimming, as well as all sorts of swords, hammers and saws – I mean – Fish.

Loro Park is located in Puerto de la Cruz. This town is also famous for being twin by our St. Petersburg. Surprisingly: the northern capital of an unbalanced country and a spa place on one of the islands of the Atlantic Ocean.

It all started from the first conqueror Canar – the Frenchman Betancura hired by the Spaniards. In 1402, he became a local vice-king and acquired such a numerous offspring that the surname Betankur was made by the most common on the Canarians. One of the most famous representatives was an engineer and a scientist Augustine Betankur, born in Puerto de La Cruz and dedicated to Russia. In 1808, he was adopted in the Russian service in the rank of Lietenanate General. Until the end of the days worked not to give up hands. The Tula weapon plant recreated, designed the living courtyard for the Nizhny Novgorod Fair, paved the first highway in Russia St. Petersburg-Moscow and built Moscow Manezh. Became the first in our country to minister of communication and died with a conscious debt.

On one of the Puerto de la Cruz Square, I managed to find a green bust of Augustine Betancura – in bronze epoles, with a standing collar and a wide ribbon over the shoulder. To find the best angle for the photo I began to come from one, then from another side and even squatted. Near the bench was sitting by a couple of British, surprised by my high attention to a banal sculpture.

This is who, Nelson? – Asked man. I negatively twisted my head.

– Really, Franco? – suggested his companion.

– Again did not guessed.

– Some famous Spaniard? – They said chorus.

– Not really – I replied. – Semi-Canar, Semi-Russian.

Canary region Spain

– Wow mixture! – Surprised by the British.

Transfer now to the next island – Lanzarote, whose residents, I do not know why, called "Konaheros" – "Rabbits". Local men widely wear black hats with fields and sit on Sundays on the attacks of local churches, just like our Pskovichi or Kargopolians on the bears beside their churches. About the neighborhood with Africa resembles the Moorish style of snow-white plastered buildings. Lancer living in one village arranged among themselves and paint the doors, gates and window frames of the same paint: blue, green or brown. On the roads of Lanzarote is prohibited to install advertising shields. Therefore, you can go a lot of kilometers among lifeless pieces of volcanic lava, representing that you are on another planet. It was here that film director Lucas filmed his "star Wars".

Old capital Lanzarote – Tegis – the best place to relax from vacationers. A typical Canary town, founded by more conquistadors, is built up with colonial houses with carved "Balconies", hanging over narrow cobbled streets. Sitting on every balcony noble seƱoras are talking about something, about the girl, – and watch what is happening down. In each window, a canary cell is exhibited. If you have not guess yourself, I will answer: only the males of these birds sing songs. Here’s how to determine their gender.

At the beginning of the 18th century, during the monstrous eruption of the Montagnas del Fuego volcano in the south-west Lanzarote, Lava, slags and ashes poured the third part of the island. Having visited Timanfaya National Park, you can imagine what nightmare was at that time. Enhances the impression of a restaurant visiting "El Diablo" ("Devil") where the meat is fried right on underground fire. On the joy of tourists in front of the restaurant, the pipes of the pipes, of which they beat powerful jets of a hot couple. The guide pours water from the jar in the hole, and a few seconds, a hot geyser fountain breaks out of the ground.

Timanfaya Park can be driven by a ride on a single camel – Dromader. Tourists sit down in wooden cradle, fortified on camel sides, and animals are built up with each other chain. The very first hand drivers: beard with a wedge, striped costume, black hat and cane. In fact, he is Moroccan, even not speaking in Spanish. But it looks very intelligent compared to dressed in T-shirts and shorts by tourists. On camel muzzle – muzzles. Apparently not to spit.

Aloplace of Lancer Landscapes is underlined by the fact that almost at any crossroads can be seen abstract designs made from multicolored bodles, balls and rods, taking away with a blow of the wind, which blows here constantly. The author of these monuments is the famous Canary artist Cears Manrique.

At first he studied in Madrid, then lived in America for a long time. Communicating with Picasso, he was friends with Andy Warhol, worked with Gaudi, arranged exhibitions in the most prestigious halls of the planet. But, while in the very zenith of glory, he left New York and returned to his native Lanzarote. Since 1968, Menrique held here the best 25 years of his life here until the day was not shot down to death by a random motorist. The absurdity of this death is aggravated by the fact that on the island of cars come across less frequently than even in our Russian outback.

His studio was a whole island. It is difficult to find a person who would have done for his homeland more than Cison Manrique for Lanzarote. Therefore, Lansottsev love to their talented compatriot is so gentle and touching. It is buried in a cemetery, an obscured white wall, in the town under the name "Valley thousands of palm trees" – where palm trees are planted in honor of each child born on the island.

One of the most interesting ideas Manrique – a concert hall inside the volcanic cave Cueva de Los Verdes. Such caves are formed during an eruption, when a solid crust is formed on the surface of the volcano, and under it the liquid flow of the chipped magma flows. Gradually, its level falls and a long tube is formed in this place. Volcanic caves are not so chaoticly confused, as ordinary, and you can walk in full. Inside, you can only get through the hole called "Chameos". The Cueva de Los Verdes cave had two exits, and the locals hid in it from pirates. But once the flibusers penetrated the cave from two sides and captured everyone who was hiding in her. One pirate – his name was pepe – I got lost.

Corridor cave stretches for more than six kilometers. In this unique natural environment with a constant temperature and humidity, creatures are known, called "Toglobionati" – Lordless bats and small wraps that fully adapted to life underground. In the country of the blind color does not matter, so animals are deprived of pigmentation.

Visitors move along the tunnel, from whose walls volcanic insides stick out. Looking for a reddish backlight, you might think that the lava has not yet cooled. The most terrible effect occurs in the place where, right under the legs, a deep abyss suddenly reappears. Standing on her very edge, the cave guide says that it is here that the lost spirit of Pirate Pepe lives here. "Let’s call it".

"PE-PE!" – Shouting tourists. And at that moment the gap begins to break. Tourists are horrified bounce back. The fact is that in fact there is simply a shameless puddle ahead, and in her mirror surface, a high cave ceiling is reflected – therefore it seems as if you stand in front of the precipice. When visitors begin to shout at the same time, the guide throws a cobblestone and the surface begins to sneak.

In the place where the narrow corridor expands to the size of the living room, equipped with a concert hall with beautiful acoustics. Once a year, the best musicians from all over the world give here a concert – and it is almost impossible to get on it. "And why only once a year?" – Was surprised. "Do you think it’s easy to drag a piano every time?" – Explained Gabriela.

Lanzarote can be immersed not only in underground, but also in underwater depths. One of the most popular attractions – Bitlovskaya "Yellow submarine", which is immersed with a depth of 60 meters. To capture portraits of unique fish, you can not fall in a diving space and do not buy a waterproof chamber. Puchglase creatures of incredible colors themselves look into the portholes, speaking graziness from curiosity. It is only necessary to ensure that the scabellagist falls into the frame in parallel and lubricating the marine habitants of breads of bread.

Another creation of Manrique is the famous garden of cacti, which presents the beautified needles of the plants of all texts and varieties. In the Garden-Museum, they perform a cognitive-aesthetic function. In general, the cacti cacti are grown for the sake of microscopic Tly, which starts on the leaves – Koshenyli. It makes a dye, indispensable in the manufacture of natural lipstick and a real vermouth. The pinch of this dye is mad money. Well, more cacti needed for the production of tequila.

When Menrique returned to his native island, he acquired a plot of land. Or rather, I received a gift from the frozen volcanic lava: the owner said that she was still not suitable for anything. The artist fits his house in the opening of a volcanic crack, I cut down the place for the bedroom under the ground, made the pool – and there was a blooming greenhouse around. Now this whole complex belongs to the Government of Lanzarote Island. The entire first floor is the gallery, where the best works of the master are exhibited. Lancer called home-museum Manrique "Laginda de la Cake" – "Cherry on the cake". Meaning: "The most cream." That is what needs to be viewed.

You can return home only from the island of Tenerife – "Aeroflot" Fly only from here. Flight Charter, and therefore, on the way back, you meet the same passengers with which he flew here from Moscow. I was interested to watch the compatriots who visited abroad. All of them somehow still changed. No, I’m not talking about tan. Just my brithead neighbor, a sealing whiskey straight out of the neck of a half-calm and accidentally pushing me in the side, said confused: "sorry". And handed me a bottle – glot, mol!

I do not know, maybe he has been educated since childhood. But for some reason it seemed to me that this word he uttered for the first time in his life. Probably, each of us acquires something in other countries. Here I remembered how yesterday I was standing on a high observation site Del Rio. It is impossible to describe the view that opens from here. It seemed that the view was covered immediately half the earth – the limitless ocean space and the yellow strip of sushi away – the tiny islet of la-graziosis.

Sitting on the railing, begging-crow mowed her round eye and strained black feathers. I handed her cookies "Jubilee", Walked in your pocket from Moscow. Carefully not to break, the bird closed in the beak fragile product of the Babayev factory, slowly rose into the air and was dissolved forever in space. "So, besides what we purchase in other countries there are still things that we leave", – I thought – and made a big sip from a bottle of a neighbor.

Canary region Spain

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